Romaine and I took a train down to Busan from Seoul at the end of March. I’d heard great things about this city, and I love a port city. Busan is a true food town; there is a rich culinary tradition due to its coastal location and history. During the Korean War, Busan was one of two cities in South Korea that remained free and welcomed refugees from various regions. Busan is also known for its seafood, BBQ, and spicy food. The air smells of the sea and grilled meats, and I loved wandering around with Romaine as the cherry blossoms began blooming.
Here are some of the spots I loved in Busan and would happily recommend and revisit. I truly enjoyed visiting Busan and am excited to return and add to this list of favorite Busan restaurants, cafes, and things to do.
Restaurants and Bars
해운대 가야밀면 Haeundae Gaya Milmyeon
Casual Korean Korean restaurant specializing in wheat noodles
The first meal we ate when we hopped off the train in Busan was milmyeon, a wheat noodle dish that North Korean refugees brought to the region during the Korean War. Traditionally, this noodle dish is made with buckwheat, but since wheat flour was more accessible through foreign aid, the dish evolved over time and became a local specialty.
We ordered the spicy bibim (mixed) milmyeon and the one in an icy pork broth (my favorite), along with some beautiful steamed mandu dumplings. The noodles were fantastic and had a specific, special chewy texture that Koreans seem to love—different from an al dente Italian-style pasta. They have a payment kiosk at each table where you prepay for your meal, and they bring it out quickly. They provide hot broth and water to drink, and everything is self-serve. This was one of my favorite meals from this trip.
해운대 가야밀면: South Korea, Busan, Haeundae-gu, Jwadongsunhwan-ro, 27 가야밀면
Moemiljip 뫼밀집
Casual Korean Korean restaurant specializing in buckwheat noodles
After a few days of aggressive eating in Busan, we needed a meal that would be gentle on our stomachs. We came here and ordered the perilla noodles and the noodles in broth. Both were delicious, but I wish we had ordered two perilla noodles. There's a slight bitterness from the perilla seeds that is a perfect counterpoint to the rich, savory, nutty flavors from the perilla oil, sauce, seaweed, and noodles. Sublime.
뫼밀집 moemiljip: South Korea, Busan, Haeundae-gu, Marine city 3-ro, 23 오렌지 상가 2층
Andong Galbi
BBQ specialized in beef short rib
Delicious coal-fired galbi with both a super garlicky marinated version and an unmarinated version. Try both kinds. I preferred the unmarinated version, but only slightly. The soup and banchan are delicious and make for a fabulous meal, especially when you wash it down with a crisp, ice-cold beer.
안동갈비 본점: South Korea, Busan, Haeundae-gu, 금호 Jwadongsunhwan-ro, 480 어울림상가
부산선옥 Busan Seonok
BBQ specializing in heritage Korean black pork
A wonderful spot for Korean BBQ featuring beautifully prepared heritage black pork. I loved the pork belly, jowl, doenjang jjigae, and the banchan bar.
부산선옥: 27 Millak-ro 27beon-gil, Suyeong-gu, Busan, South Korea
꿀꺽하우스 GGULGGEOK HOUSE
Makgeolli Brewery & Pub
We learned about this makgeolli brewery when we tried one of their makgeolli at a dinner in Seoul at Root 룻. I love makgeolli and had a great time tasting a range of their brews and learning more about this traditional Korean rice wine.
꿀꺽하우스 GGULGGEOK HOUSE (Makgeolli Brewery & Pub): South Korea, Busan, Suyeong-gu, Gwangnam-ro, 184-1 2층
Momos Coffee 모모스커피 마린시티점
Cafe
Great coffee, pastries, and a serene beautiful space. We tried to visit before they got too crowded in the mornings. They won the World Barista Championship in 2019
Momos Coffee: South Korea, Busan, Haeundae-gu, Marine city 1-ro, 91 101동 1층 101호
Markets
Jagalchi Market
Traditional Seafood Market
Jagalchi Market is the largest seafood market in South Korea and a great place to try fresh seafood that you may not have experienced before. My personal favorites are sea bream hwe (sliced raw fish), fresh octopus dipped in salt and sesame oil, and abalone.
Jagalchi Market: 52 Jagalchihaean-ro, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Haeundae Traditional Market
Traditional Korean Market
A lively local market located a few blocks from the beach, with plenty of food stalls and restaurants specializing in various local cuisines. We wandered through for some snacks, and my favorite bites were the hotteok (a hot fried pancake filled with brown sugar and cinnamon) and honeycomb makgeolli.
Haeundae Traditional Market: Haeundae-gu, Busan, South Korea
Activities
Huinnyeol Culture Village
A scenic coastal neighborhood known for colorful houses and beautiful ocean views.
Huinnyeoul Culture Village: 1043 Yeongseon-dong 4(sa)-ga, Yeongdo-gu, Busan, South Korea
Taejongdae 태종대유원지
A dramatic coastal park with cliffs, walking paths, and sweeping views of the sea.
Taejongdae: 24 Jeonmang-ro, Yeongdo-gu, Busan, South Korea
Space Lee Ufan 부산시립미술관 별관 이우환 공간
Art gallery
Dedicated to the work of Lee Ufan who is Romaine’s favorite artist.
Space Lee Ufan: 58 APEC-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan, South Korea
Helpful Information
If you’re taking a train from Seoul to Busan, make sure to book your ticket in advance, as trains can sell out quickly—especially on weekends and holidays.
Many meat and BBQ restaurants in Busan have a minimum order (usually four or five servings of meat), which is great for groups but not ideal for solo travelers.
Someone asked me if Busan is vegetarian-friendly. I think it would be difficult to navigate many restaurants as a vegetarian, since there is so much seafood in various banchan and sauces. A pescatarian diet could work here, but a strictly vegetarian/vegan one would be challenging.